TAPTENG - Barus, an ancient city on the western coast of Sumatra, has been phenomenal since the early days of Islamic civilization in the Nusantara. It was from here that Islam began to spread to various regions.
To mark the starting point of Islamic civilization in the Nusantara, on March 24, 2017, the President of the Republic of Indonesia, Joko Widodo, inaugurated the Zero Point Monument of Nusantara Islamic Civilization.
The monument is located near the Old Port of Barus, in Central Tapanuli Regency, North Sumatra Province.
This is where the early Islamic missionaries landed. It is believed that the monument stands on the site of the first mosque built in the archipelago.
Barus is home to hundreds of graves of the pioneers who brought Islam to this land. The Al-Mahligai Cemetery Complex and Papan Tinggi Cemetery are two highly popular sites, visited daily by numerous pilgrims.
At the end of 2023, I once again journeyed to the western edge of Sumatra, concluding my travels at the Zero Point of Islamic Civilization. I have frequently embarked on this route, typically starting from Padang City, West Sumatra Province.
Key cities along the way include Padang Panjang, Bukittinggi, Panyabungan, Padangsidempuan, Batang Toru, Sibolga, and ultimately Barus.
The return trip takes us through Sibolga, Batang Toru, Singkuang-Tabuyung, Natal, Ujunggading, Simpang Ampek, Pariaman, and ends back at Padang Panjang City.
Numerous historical traces can be explored when passing through these important cities in the history of Islamic civilization and the struggle for Indonesia's independence.
Even the equator, which divides the earth into northern and southern hemispheres, is part of this journey; passing through Bonjol and Kinali.
Although I have often visited these places, this year was special because I traveled with my family; Yusriana (wife), Anggita Khalidi Sriadiputra and Yola Annisa Sriadiputri (children).
My eldest, Teguh Islami Sriadiputra, could not join us as he had to complete his university assignments in Jakarta.
What made it even more special was the presence of three national figures in our group: Dr. H. Risman Muchtar from the Muhammadiyah Community Preaching Institute, Dr. Suhardin, M.Pd from the Central Indonesian Ulema Council (MUI), and Tanjung from the Muhammadiyah Preaching Council. The latter is the grandson of Muhammadiyah developer Buya AR St. Mansur.
We arrived in Barus as the sun was just rising, around 8:00 AM. Before that, we performed the Fajr prayer at the renowned Great Mosque of Sibolga.
Our first target was the Zero Point of Islamic Civilization. On Thursday morning (28/12/2023), we found the site bustling with visitors. The largest group we encountered were the Barus expatriates returning home from Meulaboh.
A lively discussion ensued between Buya Risman, Suhardin, and the Zero Point Monument tour guide, focusing on the history of Islamic civilization.
The Zero Point Monument is merely symbolic. However, evidence of the spread of Islam in the Nusantara can be found in the old graves there, including the Papan Tinggi Cemetery.
Papan Tinggi Cemetery is located in Penanggahan Village, Barus District, situated on a hill and requiring a climb of 710 steps. Among all the sheikh's graves in Barus, this one is the highest, approximately 200 meters above sea level.
To reach this site, there is a water spring at the foot of the hill for ablution. After that, one must ascend the 710 steps, approximately 145 meters, built permanently.
The view from the cemetery hill offers a stunning panorama of the surrounding forest, lush green fields, and the beautiful blue sea that envelops Central Tapanuli Regency.
Additionally, more Islamic traces can be found at the Mahligai Cemetery Complex. Mahligai Cemetery is a site with clusters of old graves located in Aek Dakka Village, Barus District, covering about three hectares.
Situated on a hill not far from Papan Tinggi Cemetery, just about 3 km away, the name Mahligai comes from the ancient term for a small palace. It is now commonly referred to as Mahligai Cemetery.
Here, you will be welcomed by guides or cemetery caretakers who will gladly explain the history of the saints buried there. They might also show you the barus plants, famous since the time of the Pharaohs in Egypt.
In Mahligai Cemetery, notable graves include those of Sheikh Imam Khotil Muazamsyah Biktibai Sheikh Samsuddin Bin Biladil Fansury (from Fansyuri Land), Sheikh Zainal Abidin, Sheikh Ilyas, Sheikh Samsuddin, and others considered his followers.
Another significant site is the grave of Sheikh Machdum. Located not far from the main road in Bukit Patupangan Village, it is about 500 meters towards the beach near the center of Barus District.
To reach this grave, you must climb around 80 steps. The area, covering about 421.18 square meters and situated 5 meters above sea level, also contains other graves believed to belong to his followers.
Additionally, there is the grave of Sheikh Ibrahim Syah, also known as Sheikh Batu Badan, located at Simpang Tiga Bukit in Patu Pangan Village, near Papan Tinggi Cemetery, just about 300 meters away.
At this grave, a long stone stretches from head to foot, indicating the length of the grave, with a stone placed on top to prevent tampering.
According to local lore, Ibrahim Syah died in 825 Hijri and was the first king of Barus. He was killed by his enemies, and the stone was placed to prevent tampering with his grave.
After a day of visiting these historic sites, we spent the evening enjoying the vibrant life from the Hamzah Al-Fanshuri Bridge. Barus residents and pilgrims often visit this bridge to relax and enjoy light snacks from the vendors lining the sides.
There are still many stories about Barus. We'll continue from another angle next time. (MUSRIADI MUSANIF)
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